James Wilson, the founder of The Economist, arrived in Calcutta in 1859 to restore order in the finances of India. He delivered the crown colony's first budget and introduced a system of income tax before passing away due to climate anxiety and labor.
The city has since lost its capital status, half its Bengali hinterland, and its English name but has gained a reputation as the most liveable megacity in India.
Rents and home prices are the lowest among India's biggest cities, and fees for high-quality schools and good healthcare are also low.
Kolkata is the country's cultural capital, with a rich tradition of art, music, and literature, and it is liberal on matters of religion and gender relations.
The city is served by cheap, varied, and expanding public transport, and a network of elevated roads connects far-flung areas.
A rash of cafes is being joined by trendy cocktail bars and upmarket restaurants, and new hotels and flats are adding a touch of glamour to the skyline.
However, the city's improvement is attributed to Mamata Banerjee, who has led West Bengal since 2011, but her government has not incentivized business, and the state's share of national output has continued to slide.
Population growth is the slowest of India's five biggest cities, and talented young Bengalis leave in droves, while graduates from the rest of India rarely move there.
Kolkata's default status as the commercial capital of India's eastern region is a historical trade hub, the gateway to the remote north-east, and a magnet for migrants from neighbouring Bihar and Jharkhand.
Ms Banerjee will ask Bengalis to give her a fourth term this month, but voters face a difficult choice between her and Narendra Modi's Bharatiya Janata Party.
